That great little store (bg)

I’m returning to posting on the blog after recovering from food poisoning 48 hours ago. And yes, it’s all it’s cracked up to be.

As such the hiking has been a bit curtailed having to haul me around in a cab, but we’re back on track for a couple of demanding hills tomorrow on our way to Pontevedra.

Meantime here in quaint Redondela, we arrived early - before our allowed check in times and we’re looking for our usual stopping / idling option - a sidewalk cafe. (Good coffee, other pilgrims, but honestly - another sweet roll?!?). Not today. I noticed a completely innocuous shop behind a modest glass door. Looking closer it appeared to feature charcuterie, but also had some public seating in the back so I ventured in. First thing I noticed was instead of the usual Spanish news or soccer blaring over some TV - their audio choice was jazz.

Yahtzee!

Welcome to Tia Estebana - a local cafe and charcuterie shop owned and run by Farra and Xan ( “John”). It’s part cafe, part charcuterie shop, and part gourmet food store. Xan and Farra are not only married to each other, but also to the store for last six years (“we’ve poured and hearts and soul into it”)

They also have an area in the back with a teaching kitchen which is where we sat and enjoyed superb coffee, fresh artisan bread - and bc it was close enough to lunch - had some excellent meat and cheese.

And after 30 minutes we realized the only other folks who came in the shop were locals - which honestly was a refreshing change.

We chatted a bit more with Farra, and before saying goodbye we asked if a photo would be OK and they warmly agreed. Honestly, it felt like coffee with family.

Gracias  Farra y Xan and your lovely Tia Estebana.

PS: One pilgrim habit we’ve gotten caught up in is asking any establishment we dine or lodge in “Do you have a stamp?”(for our Camino de Santiago log book that “validates” your journey and you become eligible to receive a certificate). Here’s what a typical group of them look like:

When we asked Farra if Tia Estebana had a stamp, she blushed slightly with embarrassment and said yes they did. I didn’t understand until she brought it out:

We all had a great laugh together. We assured her, “No problem. This is how we’d remember you anyway - as one of our biggest highlights.”