George and EAM#2

We stayed in an old refurbished alberge in Tomar and our delightful host George - who spoke a tiny bit of English to my tiny bit of Portuguese- but always with a smile and with the desire to help. When we checked in on Friday we informed him we’d be leaving early Saturday due to a big hiking segment ahead. He registered disappointment bc it was clear he wanted us to enjoy coffee and breakfast the next morning. So instead, showed us how to make our own coffee during our early departure. Next morning Michelle and tried to tiptoe down the old creaky stairs so not wake anyone - and were packing some food from the fridge we bought the night before. We had no interest in taking the extra time for the coffee but as we hoisted our packs up, who comes out to greet us but George. He insists we have a coffee to take with us and even though it would delay our departure-I’ve long lived by the belief that you don’t turn away heartfelt hospitality. Fifteen minutes later we bid George a warm farewell and were on our way to begin an 18.5 mile day of hills that the AllTrails hiking app labels “Hard”.

We stop for coffee 2.5 hours later at a cafe only to discover I had neglected to turn in our room key to George - one of those elegant old brass keys which must be costly to replace. Then we checked our phones to find that George had tried to reach us so I call him to apologize and told him I’d mail it to him at my first opportunity at the next big town and typical George - wouldn’t have any of it. Instead he asked if I could give the phone to the cafe owner for translation. Listening to her rip though sentences of Portugues with him must have been a treat for George. When she hung up she simply said he’ll come and get it later - after all, it’s only a 5 minute DRIVE!

EAM (Embarrassing American Moment) #2: American Pilgrim - Even though YOU may be walking and distances seem forever, the rest of the world is still on car time.